Canyon de Chelly – vast, deep, remote, steep – not the smartest recreational choice after stomach flu. A switchback trail where every step inspires thoughts of “I have to repeat this – going up.” But I’d waited years to land this particular hike in my bucket, and so I descended. (Sorry Tina, but someone had to stay up top with Izzy.) At the bottom I found a river-fed oasis sunk between desert-varnished walls that once nurtured and housed an ancient people. Mysteries and histories.





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